BearsWave of the Week # 4 Episode 4-Fuel Tv’s “Clean Break”Posted on July 6, 2012 by Bear Woznick
“Lawe i ka ma’alea a ku’ono’ono”
“Acquire a skill and make it deep”
Over time a real surfer acquires knowledge of tides, ocean floors and swell direction. A surfer can look at pictures of probably over a hundred different waves and without any land in the image or surfers on the wave he knows what wave that is. The Waimea shore break that is featured on some of Shick Hydro’s advertising (Clean Break’s sponsor) is instantly recognizable to any true surfer.
A surfer can go to sleep at night and look out his window at the phase of the moon and know when the tide will turn from low tide to high the next day and push a little more energy into the waves. He may be sitting in a board meeting and glance out the window at the wind through the trees and know just where the wind is blowing offshore and sculpting waves into perfect barrels.
He can look at a board and know where that board is meant to be surfed and how the owner of that board likes to surf. He can see a new swell rising from a new direction and senses when an old swell is fading.
He knows the difference between a point break, shore break, beach break and reef break. He swims beneath the surface to explore the ocean bottom contours and understand why waves at some spots form hollow bowls, while other wave run in long lines.
Mastery requires us to go deep not wide. Mastery is a lifetime pursuit. Pursuing mastery does not come from commitment at all. It comes from something deeper. It comes from searching our soul and letting our soul run with its passion. It is simply paddling in and riding the waves that flow within our hearts.
The surfs up! What area of life are you drawn to seek mastery in?
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Author of “Deep in the Wave”
World Masters Tandem Surf Champ
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